BEEP! BEEP! BEEEEP! I feel like I can still hear the honking. Cars, buses, trucks, it doesn’t matter: they all honk as a way of communicating. It isn’t the communication you might be thinking of if you live in the U.S. Honking is meant to mean anything from “hey there! I’m here FYI” to “come on! I’m trying to pass!”. We spent two weeks learning the difference of those honks as we walked our way around different cities in Vietnam, always searching for our next great meal. We started in the capital city of Hanoi in the north and made our way down to the southern metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon).
Hanoi
We started our Vietnamese adventure by flying into Hanoi and getting into the heart of the city. We stayed in this small boutique hotel right in the Old Quarter of Hanoi. We knew we were in the action because the roads are closed to motor traffic on the weekends. The outer edges of the streets that surround Hoan Kiem Lake are busy with traffic that turn into motorbike parking lots for residents to put their feet on the blacktop for evening activities. Since we were visiting close to Tet (Vietnam’s first day of the year – essentially New Year’s Day), there was even a temporary stage set up for musical performances in the evenings. We had a chance to walk around and experience the festivities.
We Weren’t Alone
Vietnam was extra special for us. We are constantly reminded of how blessed we are when we have an opportunity like the one we had during our two weeks in Vietnam. Britta’s sister, Bethany, and her boyfriend, Jack, made the long trek from Minnesota. They are two of our favorite people in the world and they definitely enhanced our time traveling through Vietnam. You may or may not see them in our photos or on our Instagram Reels.
The Streets of Hanoi Old Quarter
The Old Quarter of Hanoi has a bunch of tight alleys tucked perpendicular to the busy streets full of motorbikes and cars alike. Coffee is a big thing in Vietnam (I was elated) so it seems that every street in this iconic area of Hanoi had a coffee shop of some sort. As part of a walking food tour, we were introduced to the locally created egg coffee. Think of egg coffee as a coffee with this lovely whipped cream which is really egg yolk on top. The egg yolk is thicker than any foam of a cappuccino you may have had made from foaming milk. The thick creaminess of the egg yolk properly stirred in with the delightful coffee makes for a nice change of pace in your coffee game.
Though egg coffee originated in Hanoi, it isn’t the only uniquely delicious coffee you can try. We indulged in many trips to local Cong Ca Phe’s throughout Vietnam. But, none more fun than the Cong Ca Phe in Hanoi Old Quarter. The main reason we made this a staple on our trip was because of their delicious coconut coffee. I know what you are thinking: coffee with coconut milk isn’t THAT revolutionary. It’s different in Vietnam though, the coffee and coconut flavoring is blended creating an almost malt-like milkshake. The coffee can be strong or not depending on your taste. Delightful is the best way to describe it, especially on hot days in a place like Vietnam.
Many of the streets in the Old Quarter of Hanoi have names that describe what the shops on that street sell. For instance, “Silver Street” would be the name of a street where there are a number of shops selling silver items. So, of course, there is a street named “Beer Street” where many patrons can be seen watching a Vietnamese football match or sipping on a local tap of Hanoi-label beer. We had a blast just meandering through the streets competing with motorbikes, and the occasional car, for space. Many of the restaurants open to the street just begging you to stop in for a bite.
The walking street food tour I mentioned earlier introduced us to egg coffee, but it also introduced us to one of our now-favorite Vietnamese foods. Described as a Vietnamese pancake or crepe, the Bánh Xèo was a dish that I did not see coming. It looks like a crepe and you eat it in a unique way. They give you a huge plate of different greens and herbs and rice paper wrappers. You pick the greens and herbs you want, add a piece of the Banh Xeo, wrap it up in the rice paper, and dip it in the sweet and sour style sauce. It is delicious. We went back again before leaving Hanoi and ordered a double portion. Also showcased on the food tour were vegetarian steamed buns, dry noodle pho, different styles of spring, summer, and pho rolls, and banh mi sandwiches.
Ninh Binh Day Trip
A popular day trip from Hanoi is to head to the Ninh Binh region to see the Ngo Dong river with adjacent limestone hills, an ancient capital city, and the Hang Mua viewpoint. We were slightly off-season so while the rice fields weren’t planted along the river, we still loved the views. The tour started with a visit to Hoa Lu, an ancient capital of Vietnam. While there we even heard the large gong bell ringing in the temple. Many government officials come to worship there.
From there, we biked through a small town and countryside and even though it was one of the few times that Jack has been on a bike, he did great. Just two small crashes. From there, we had the chance to take a traditional row boat down the river where the boat operators row with their feet! Our boats went under and through three caves and ended in a small area where boat merchants rowed up alongside to sell drinks and snacks.
After our boat ride, we headed over to hike up to the Hang Mua overlook and climbed up just under 500 steps and we were rewarded with amazing views of the river and mountains. On the way down, Jack got his first fresh coconut of the trip. We loved this day trip and it was a great addition to our time in Hanoi.
Ha Long Bay Cruise
After Hanoi, we headed east to Ha Long Bay for a two-night cruise on the Dora. Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is known for its jade-colored waters and towering limestone islands. January is technically off-season for Ha Long Bay so while we didn’t see the sun the entire two days, the sight of the many islands shrouded in mist was captivating. Our rooms were next door and we each had a lovely balcony where we read while drinking coffee and tea.
The cruise offered many activities including kayaking, squid fishing, a day trip to Cat Ba island, and a rooftop hot tub. The first day we went kayaking it was raining and we got soaked. Jack and I made it the farthest in our kayak while Bethany and Britta found out that there are other activities that they do better together. 😀
On our day trip to Cat Ba island, Jack and I biked the island while Bethany and Britta rode in style in an electric open-air cart. The island has a large area dedicated to a national park and a very remote village inside the internal valley of the island. We hiked through the jungle, had the chance for a fish spa pedicure, and were even offered local wine infused with snakes. After a huge lunch on the day boat, we docked at a local floating village and Jack and I took off for another round in the kayak.
We also met a lovely couple from Wales who taught the four of us a new game – ask us about it the next time we see you!
Da Nang
We spent a few days in Da Nang and had an amazing beach day where Jack got coconut number two. The water was shallow for a long way out and the sand on the beach was fine and sugary. We enjoyed the rooftop deck and pool at our hotel for a great sunset and found the best pho of the trip at Thìa Gỗ Restaurant. Da Nang was our mini vacation within our trip 😀
Hoi An
One of our favorite stops on the trip was Hoi An. We stayed at a lovely, family-owned boutique hotel – Vinci Villa – where the owner’s mother made us fresh breakfast each morning, complete with our choice of banana or pineapple pancakes. Just around the corner from the hotel is Phi Banh Mi, the best sandwich I’ve had in my life. For about $1.50, we enjoyed a freshly made meal from the family-owned shop. Their son who was maybe about 8 or 9 years old took our order the first time we went there and afterward he showed us tricks around the shop until he knocked over a stack of chairs. His top trick was the water bottle flip. 🙂
A popular activity in Hoi An is having custom clothing made by a local tailor. We went to BeBe Tailor and each ordered an item. We had to go back several times over a few days for fittings and it was a really unique experience. We plan to meet up in the US and wear our outfits at the same time, so keep an eye out for that pic 🙂
The streets of Hoi An are lit up with lanterns at night and we jumped at the chance to make our own lanterns at a local shop. We chose the option where the frame was already constructed and spent a few hours stretching the silk fabric over the frame, smoothing out bumps, and trimming the extra fabric away. We can’t wait to hang them up at home!
Ho Chi Minh City
Our last stop in Vietnam was their largest city, Ho Chi Minh City. It also goes by Saigon. It’s a massive city with traffic that rivals any city we have ever visited. But, with some of the wider streets, walking can be quite enjoyable. We got to experience the large indoor market, Ben Thanh, and it was quite the experience indeed. Shop owners try to pull you into their stalls selling all kinds of stuff. Jack had eyed up a chessboard that had unique pieces. After a while of shopping around, he finally got a store owner to come to a reasonable price. I look forward to playing him on that board when returning to the States.
We also got a chance to take in Little Tokyo while here for such a short time. We sipped plum wine and sake and had amazingly delicious ramen to get a little feel of Japan while in Vietnam. It was a great cap to our north-to-south trip to Vietnam.
Recap
Next Up!
- New Zealand
Read About Where Else We’ve Been
- New Zealand: A Little Bit of Everything
- Vietnam: North to South
- Malaysia, Singapore, Cambodia: New Year’s 2023
- Thailand: Temples, Food, and So Much More
- Australia: The East Coast of Natural Wonders
What memories came to mind as I was reading about your sojourn into Thailand. Although your mom was born in Vientiane, Laos, she enjoyed several years in the Thai educational system when we lived in Thailand. She was fluent in the Thai language but would never speak it at home. Khaawp-khun!
Oooo. This was so interesting to read! Awesome writing! Always great to share new experiences and places with friends!